1967 junior year attending a vocational/technical school body Not to be a show off and appear to be a smart-a_s,I would like to say as someone who first was taught the fundamentals about how to use one of these spray guns during the 2nd semester of my H.S. ![]() An example of an acrylic polymer glue is Elmer's Glue, acrylic polymers are used to make concrete sealer ( Mmmm makes me wonder about Future?), also acrylic polymers are used to make textiles too. Modern polymer paints are puzzing to me, I know of only 3 types of polymer based paints 1) acrylic enamel, 2) acrylic lacquer, both of which are flammable the 3rd one is "aqueous" paint (think of latex house paint). Since some might wonder about Eric's " (Someone on Promodeller found a citation from the Tamiya page confirming that their lacquer thinner is the better choice.) and blow it off as an internet rumor the URL to that page is: and will add a screen shot should this URL be revised.Īt a glance you will notice its an "acrylic paint" - type not disclosed, and it is flammable. Hi keilau, EBergerud, Phil_H, Don & others who may read this, I recommend this program to quickly answer most all conversion problems Universal Converter Version: 1.25 (Build 67.3) software program you can download at: (the 15 psi answer is close enough - no point in showing the programs many decimal pointed answer). Neat.) Odd, when I started this hobby I swore I'd only work with primes. (I used the railroad modeler version: "engine black" is blacker than black. I did a KV-1 with them and liked them a lot. My favorite Osprey author Gary Edmundson has nice things to say about Floquil Pollyscale acrylics. (I do like those Euro eye-dropper bottles a lot: saves paint bigtime.) Also had okay results with Lifecolor - will do more with them before getting more though. I've bought some vallejos which are very nice and some Xtracrylix which I haven't tried but have heard are quite similiar to Vallejo. This is good reason to look around the paint world. Color paints perform far better with lacquer thinner to the point that I don't think water would work at all with them. (Wilder post was forwarded by one of the board's editors.) There is no doubt whatsoever that Gunze Mr. The promodeller gurus came to more or less the same opinion after trying it out. Ironically the first piece by Wilder I read was from 2001 on armor weathering & painting and he recommends Tamiya acrylics at 3:2 paint/thinner.īut if you're willing to put up with the ugly, lacquer is better with Tamiya acrylics. (Someone on Promodeller found a citation from the Tamiya page confirming that their lacquer thinner is the better choice.) Obviously there are different ways to do things - right now it's very hard to find Tamiya acrylic thinner so someone uses it. 20 tip brush lays down a thin but very clean coat. ![]() And Wilder's equation of 4:1 with lacquer thinner at about 15PSI with a HS. (Sure is a fine airbrush cleaner.) But it also works better with Tamiya, at least the Tamiya and Gunze brands do, than Tamiya acrylic thinner. Lacquer thinner (there is a "green "variety out there but not much of an improvement), has an obvious down side - definite mask time and it's a powerful solvent. This issue first came up on the Promodeller forum, but there is no doubt that Wilder is right about Tamiya "acrylic" paints and lacquer thinner. Looks to me that Wilder was closer to 17 PSI but maybe "one bar" is approximate or maybe I don't see straight. On second look the Night Vision DVD on Modulation Technique (in a section called "ratios") does show a pressure gauge that has PSI inside bars: but it flashes quickly.
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